Belay device types This system, which underlies belay devices with a 'well' (or bucket/basket) design, is less versatile but very popular amongst Italian climbers. Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices For the purpose of this article, the only two categories of belay devices that will be discussed are tube-style devices and assisted braking devices (ABDs). Knowing the different belay devices is key for safe climbing. g. 9mm. Belay devices fall into three main categories: tube-style, auto-block and assisted braking devices (passive and active). But the passive in this belay device simply refers to the fact that it doesn’t have any moving parts. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping power. Here is a good overview of the different belay As with carabiners, not all ropes will work with all devices. The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. May 6, 2020 · Many devices have become quite use-specific, but they all follow the basic principle: the device will help you to control the flow of the rope, and therefore, help you to stop a falling climber. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. What are the different types of belay devices? Belay devices fall into one of two categories: Non assisted braking and Assisted braking belay devices. Skip to content Free Shipping on Gear Orders Over $50 - Continental U. S. It is crucial to check that your belay device is compatible with the type of rope (e. A Tubular Belay device. Figure 8 belay devices are simple and require more force from your hands to slow down your partner. Assisted Braking Belay Devices; Tube-Style Belay Devices; Semi-automatic tube-style devices; The Best Belay Device for Beginners Sep 21, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices. Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. Even if you primarily rely on an assisted braking device like the Grigri above when belaying, it's important to have a backup—and ideally one that can be used for double Mar 16, 2022 · Belay devices help by increasing friction to the point where the rope cannot move through the device. EN 15151-2:2012 type 4 Mar 20, 2025 · The right belay device can mitigate risks associated with falls, providing both climbers and belayers with peace of mind. These feed the rope smoothly and make life easy on the belayer, but don't work with all sizes of ropes. Jan 4, 2024 · The term ‘belay plate’ is still used as a catch-all for any belay device (mostly by British climbers), but they actually are a very specific type of belay device. Let’s quickly look at the key specs, variations, and pros and cons of climbing’s most classic tube-style belay device. This is a more Jul 28, 2024 · Mastering Belay Device Usage. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber and ensure that they do not How Do You Rappel Without A Belay Device? There are several different ways you can rappel without a traditional belay device. Non-assisted braking belay devices are among the oldest and most effective tools used in climbing. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. This function distinguishes it from traditional belay devices such as a Sticht plate or an ATC, whose braking mechanisms depend entirely on the user controlling the rope in a specific manner to increase or decrease friction. There are two types of assisted braking belay devices. Nov 9, 2021 · Auto-locking belay devices detect sudden motion and lock down on the rope for you automatically. Trango Vergo Belay Device is an assisted-braking belay device designed to bring new levels of safety and ergonomics to rock climbing belaying. Once you know and understand how to belay with one, you should be able to apply these skills to the other. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. Active assisted braking belay devices contain moving parts that engage Jul 11, 2024 · Harkening back to the time-tested tube-style belay devices of old, the ATC-XP is a cheap and simple but entirely functional device for new and experienced climbers alike. May 5, 2025 · The Best Belay Device. It is mainly used for sports climbing. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. There are many different types of belay devices, but the main categories boil down to just six types. What is a Belay Device? A belay device is a critical tool for climbers, acting as a friction brake to manage the climbing rope. Oct 8, 2023 · Over time, belay devices have changed greatly, evolving into tools that simultaneously provide maximum safety and ease of use. It’s important to pick the right one for your style. Now, when you're in the market for a belay device, you have three main types on the menu: Tubular; Assisted braking; Figure 8; The choice of belaying devices for climbing depends on the type of climbing experience you want to have. Therefore, I won’t even attempt to create an article that comments on all of them. These are primarily used for rappelling and May 19, 2022 · Your belay device will work better/worse depending on the type of rappel, the size of the rope, the terrain you’re rappelling, and the distance of the rappel. It also works either left or right handed. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. Best for: Multipitch trad climbing, sport climbing, gym climbing. Belay devices come in two main types: Tubular Devices: The Black Diamond ATC and Petzl Reverso are popular. This article covers belay with a tubular device. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Tubular Belay Devices. They rely entirely on the belayer to stop the rope passing through the device. We’ll discuss the pros and cons of each type of belay device so you can find the exact one you need. Friction Only May 10, 2019 · Billed as the most versatile belay device ever, the Giga Jul is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. A modern belay device (or ‘belay plate’) can be simple: the width of a credit card, with no moving parts and light weight. Different types of belay devices are designed for various climbing disciplines—sport climbing, trad climbing, and mountaineering, among others. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the Multiuse belay / abseil device with innovative and compact design and it has a modular braking system to optimise braking with all types of rope. You will also need to check the rope diameter range of your device. Some belay devices work better with certain carabiners. Mar 27, 2019 · Belay devices: what types? To address each use and every user, Petzl offers two types of device: assisted-braking belay devices; belay/rappel devices; Assisted-braking belay devices. If you choose a different type of device than the one you were originally taught to use, then you must learn and practice techniques with that new device. Mar 21, 2024 · Most US commercial gyms have some sort of regulation or restriction on the type of belay device you can use. Passive Assisted Braking Belay Devices. If the rope is too thick, it may not feed through the belay device properly. The latter can be broken down further into active ABDs and passive ABDs. , single) you are climbing with. So let's start with a general classification that will serve to better define the different categories of belay devices currently on the market. Some belay devices assist the belayer into an assisted braking mechanism while others for DIY (do it yourself) personality requires locking or braking the rope manually. The added engineering in safety and assistance in braking and moving parts make this type of device the most expensive belay device, but it is the one that you will find in most climbing gyms. Another method for an Australian rappel is wearing your harness backwards and attaching the belay device there. Each device is made for certain climbing needs. Most gyms only allow belaying with a brake assist belay device. e. Other Belay Devices. ATC. Aug 27, 2023 · Overview of belay device types. Other gyms don’t require you to own your own belay device and will already have a belay device, like the Petzl GriGri , rigged on each top rope setup. How they manage friction and your ability to control it varies depending on the design. ATC or tubular devices. Tubular belay devices are one of the most common types of devices. You can also belay a second climber using a plate-type belay device. Feb 22, 2020 · Inside the device you can find a long, nylon lanyard coiled tightly around a spring-loaded center spool. When the two climbers advance using a running belay, the belay is almost as secure as using a belay device and anchors because if the leader falls, all the slack is already out of the rope and the follower acts as a counterweight to catch the fall. The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Tubular Belay Devices for Climbing. BE UP KIT Combination kit with BE UP + CONCEPT SGL carabiner. Nov 16, 2023 · Smaller isn’t always better: its small size can make it difficult to pair with a belay device, since many belay devices aren’t rated to handle a rope smaller than 8. Advantages: Sep 14, 2020 · However, belay devices last for years and there’s no point saving $10 now and needing an upgrade when you want to climb more than one pitch or try some trad climbing. The Grigri is are arguably the safest belay device for beginners. com When choosing a belay device, you have three primary types to choose from: Tubular; Assisted braking; Figure 8; Which one you choose depends on the kind of climbing you do. Currently, there are three main categories of belay devices: dynamic belay While traditional auto belays use a top roping format with the device hanging from the top of the route, in 2021, a new type of auto belay–the lead auto belay–was developed that used a lead climbing format (i. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. One type of belay device is called a tubular device or also known as ATC (Air Traffic Controller). Each has quite different features, making them suitable for specific climbing situations. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. May 26, 2022 · The type of device we recommend largely has to do with the type of climbing situation you find yourself in. Perfect for rope rescue systems, belay gear, and climbing applications. Most auto belays use the same mechanism for ascension, but the mode of descent varies among different types of automatic belay devices. Shop belay devices. Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. You’ll find out exactly what belay devices are, including a quick overview of each type of belay device by category. A running belay is a variant of the dynamic belay in which the top anchor point is attached to a horizontal cable using a trolley. All of these are designed to be used clipped directly to the belay loop of a harness with a locking carabiner when belaying the lead climber, or Mar 23, 2022 · Types of belay device. Lowering vs Rappelling Devices like the Grigri are all a lot heavier and bigger than tube devices or figure 8s. We explain the different types there is and offer a description of every belay device we stock. The belay device; an essential item for sport climbing, trad climbing, alpine climbing and mountaineering. Tubular belay devices have several advantages. And we talk about those nuances below. When belaying for top rope or lead climbing, a small belay device is clipped onto the belayer's harness which allows them to control the rope. This style of device is most commonly referred to as the “ATC”, which is Black Diamond’s version of the mechanism. A popular example of the former is the Black Diamond ATC , the latter the Petzl GriGri . Types of Belay Devices Available. Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. Not much has changed since its original design in the 1990s. These are very common and are suitable for any kind of climbing. They emerged as the go-to belay device in the early 90s. It’s definitely the best beginner belay device with a tube-style design and you’ll see it on most experienced climbers’ harnesses. These tubular belay devices are like the all-around champs, fitting into any Assisted braking belay devices automatically lock down on the rope to help the belayer catch a climber’s fall. Generally, different types of belay devices are aimed at different activities. only Jun 9, 2023 · Additionally, some devices can be converted into assisted-braking belay devices for securing one or two climbers on multipitch climbs. The Grigri works by pinching the rope when it is moving quickly (like in a fall), making it an assisted braking belay device. An older style GriGri — an active assisted braking device; (photo/Petzl) Active Assisted Braking. The shape is generally tubular or rectangular. As with all assisted-breaking belay devices you should always keep a hand on the dead rope - they are "assisted breaking" not "auto-lock"! See the Oct 12, 2020 · Overall, there are three main types of auto belays that have been used throughout time; the hydraulic auto belay, the friction auto belay, and the newest, the magnetic auto belay. There might be more belay devices on the market than stars in the Milky Way Galaxy. Belay techniques vary for many reasons. They are Jun 30, 2023 · The two main belay device types are tubular, or “tube-style,” and mechanically assisted devices. BE UP is a multiuse belay / abseil device with innovative and compact design and it has a modular braking system to optimise braking. In this article you’ll find a no-nonsense summary of the different types of belay device out there. We’ve sorted this guide from the most popular to least popular belay device styles used by climbers today. Non Assisted Braking. So there you have it - a comprehensive list of all the types of belay device available on the market today! Dec 5, 2024 · There are three basic types of belay devices on the market: Tubes, Auto Blocking Tubes, and Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). See full list on climbinghouse. the climber clipped into the quickdraws like a normal lead climb on a sport climbing route), where the device was fixed to the bottom of the route. The hydraulic auto belay was the first of its kind, but was expensive and bulky, taking up lots of space behind the climbing wall. Dec 22, 2022 · The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device. Choosing the best one for your needs starts with understanding how they work. Three of the most popular methods are listed below: Using a single rope rappel with your partner, using just one belay device; Using a double carabiner brake rappel with four different carabiners This presents some challenges, because you’ll constantly be struggling against the rope trying to pull you back into a standard belaying position, and you risk loose clothing or items getting caught in a belay device. This lanyard is what you clip into, instead of tying into a traditional climbing rope. These are definitely the safest devices to get and are the best choice for beginners. The two main belay device types include automatic belay devices and manually operated belay devices. Conclusion. This type of device – also known as a self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking device - is designed to react to a sudden force by locking down on the rope to catch and hold a fall. Jun 28, 2018 · Used in conjunction with a climbing rope, common dynamic belays use tube-style devices like the Petzl Verso and Omega Pacific SBG II. . By using a belay device, even a smaller, less muscular belayer can easily Dec 22, 2023 · The Different Types of Belay Devices. If I somehow manage to skip an important category, feel free to give me a heads up. May 28, 2024 · Types of belay devices Tubular Devices. It’s kind of a funny term simply because there’s nothing passive about climbing. This belay device has a pinching mechanism between the carabiner and the device to help it stop the rope. Apr 24, 2024 · Belay Device Notes. They are lightweight and compact, making them easy to Apr 11, 2013 · In usage the device works smoothly and you belay with a similar action to a standard simple bucket/tube type belay device making it an easy transition. Because of their two slots and holes for hanging from an anchor, plates are often used by those who climb with twin ropes (which is more common in Great Britain than North America). Small ropes also tend to be more difficult to control and also tangle more easily. After six months of use we give the verdict here, especially with a view to how it suits UK trad climbing. Instead, I organize the devices into four categories and then speak about just a few exemplary devices. Jan 12, 2017 · The automatic belay doesn't require a human partner and is completely controlled by the auto belay device. The leader and follower climb simultaneously with protection placed in between. Most lightweight and compact belay device with cam-assisted blocking in the Petzl range: - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimally balanced design: lightweight (175 g), compact, and durable Dec 22, 2023 · The Different Types of Belay Devices. Some belay devices work better with certain diameters of rope (the tested rope diameter range is listed on the side of the belay device – though often the smoothest operation is in the middle of the range). Broadly speaking, there are two types of belay device: manual braking devices and assisted braking devices. There are three main belay device types that operate slightly differently to modulate the friction and braking power applied to a climbing rope. Some gyms only allow belying with a belay device that has assisted braking . Passive devices pinch the rope between a carabiner and the belay device to stop it from sliding through. Mar 19, 2025 · HOATER's belay devices, available in various styles for enhanced safety, versatility, and ease of use. However, this type cannot be used to belay a lead climber (it would need to be supplemented by a Tubik, for example). There are several belay device types available, each with their own pros and cons. Here’s what this guide will cover: Belay Device Types. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. To learn more about assisted-braking belay devices, refer to the corresponding subsection of this article. Principle: when the climber falls, the device pivots on the carabiner, the rope tightens, and the cam pinches and blocks the rope. Active devices have moving parts whereas passive devices don’t. In this post, we'll demystify the various types of belay devices, explain how they work, and even share some insider tips on picking the perfect one for your next thrilling ascent. Jul 26, 2024 · This buying guide offers advice for anyone wanting to purchase a new belay device, or add to their existing collection. An example of a tube-style device. Nov 14, 2024 · Let’s delve into what belay devices are, the different types available, and tips for choosing the right one for your climbing adventures. Feb 12, 2024 · Assisted-Braking Belay/Rappel Device. For the sake of simplicity, we’ll be covering belaying with a tube-style device, like an ATC, in this article. Find the ideal belay device for your needs today! The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. The result is a compre Feb 22, 2020 · There are some disadvantages to these types of devices, such as increased weight, high cost, and decreased versatility, but overall the advantage of having the assisted brake far outweighs the minimal drawbacks. apxqrixspbhxqkwrwanrthgynyxtiihthrgezjvspmsxulscfqywxkkyiipvdueoswyjlzsvatxdul